698 useful answers · Page 14 of 30
Change bulbs, patch walls, identify window hardware, and learn practical tool basics.
Search this topicInspect the wood for nails, screws, staples, and difficult knots, then clamp it securely. Choose a sharp chisel of suitable width and keep both hands behind its cutting edge. Work away from your body with balanced footing. Do not hold a loose board in one hand while chiseling with the other.
Use a wooden or plastic mallet unless the chisel is specifically designed for steel-hammer blows. CCOHS distinguishes heavy-duty or framing chisels from ordinary handled chisels. Inspect the handle before use, and use hand pressure alone for fine paring. A cracked handle is a reason to stop, not strike harder.
Do not use an ordinary wood chisel as a pry bar or wedge. Remove waste through controlled cuts, using the appropriate tool when leverage is needed. A chisel's cutting edge and handle are designed for cutting wood, and prying can damage them or cause a sudden loss of control.
For rough waste removal, bevel down can help control depth as you raise or lower the handle. For flattening, bevel up lets the flat back guide the cut. The orientation depends on the task rather than one universal rule. Practice light cuts on securely clamped scrap before working to a final line.
For vertical chopping or paring, face the bevel toward the waste and begin initial cuts slightly away from the final line. The bevel acts as a wedge and can push the edge backward. Remove most waste first, then approach the line with light, controlled cuts on a secured workpiece.
Use a sharp edge and take light shavings with the grain where possible. A controlled slicing cut can leave a cleaner surface than forcing a heavy cut straight across grain. Clamp the work and keep fingers outside the cutting path. Practice the motion on scrap before refining the finished part.
Let the machine's weight do the work instead of bearing down. Secure the board with clamps or stops, hold the sander with both hands, and keep the vents clear. Excess pressure is not a substitute for a suitable abrasive. Use working dust collection and the protection required for the material.
Disconnect the power first, then match the belt's direction marking to the machine's marking. Use the specified belt size and adjust tracking and tension according to the manual. Do not run a worn, frayed, or poorly tracking belt; correct the installation before returning the sander to the work.
Empty it before it fills and follow the machine's cleaning instructions with power disconnected. CCOHS recommends emptying a belt sander's collector at one-quarter full to reduce fire hazards. Keep extraction working and the motor vents clear; a connected bag is not useful dust control when airflow is obstructed.
For conventional routing around an outside edge, move counterclockwise around the work. Secure the stock and follow the bit and machine instructions for your setup. This rule is not a blanket direction for inside openings or router tables, which have different relationships between cutter and work.
Use multiple shallower passes when the wood, bit size, or required cut would overload a single pass. Test depth and feed on similar scrap and stay within the router and bit instructions. Slowing the feed indefinitely is not the answer to an excessively deep cut; reduce the material removed per pass.
Start with the base properly supported and the bit clear so it can rotate freely. For an internal plunge cut, bring the motor to operating speed before lowering the bit using the router's prescribed method. Secure the workpiece; a person holding it by hand is not an adequate substitute for clamping.
For the conventional hacksaw setup described by CCOHS, install the blade with its teeth pointing forward, away from the handle. Tension it according to the frame's instructions and check alignment. Select a blade appropriate to the material; a correctly mounted blade still performs poorly when its tooth pattern is unsuitable.
Secure the work, use steady strokes away from you, and use the blade's length rather than very short strokes in one spot. Cut harder materials more slowly and use suitable lubrication as directed. Keep the frame aligned with the cut so the thin blade is not twisted under pressure.
Stop and correct the blade tension and frame alignment before continuing. CCOHS warns against using a blade that is loose in its frame. Inspect it for damage and avoid excessive pressure or twisting. Trying to compensate with a stronger push can break the blade instead of finishing the cut cleanly.
No. Use the appropriate rip fence or miter gauge to guide the work according to the saw's instructions, with the required guards in place. Freehand cutting can let the stock twist into the blade. A pencil line is a layout aid, not a substitute for a properly configured guiding system.
Provide stable support behind and beside the saw as needed so the stock does not tip or pull the cut off line. Arrange it before starting and keep the path clear. Follow the saw's operating setup; do not reach over a moving blade to catch an unsupported offcut.
Turn the saw off and wait for the blade to stop before dealing with scraps. Disconnect power before adjustments or servicing, and use an appropriate brush or tool instead of reaching around the teeth. Do not leave the saw running while clearing the work area or walking away from it.
It lets you advance and control stock while keeping your hand farther from the blade. Use a push device appropriate to the saw, cut, and available space, following the machine's instructions. It supplements the correct fence and guard setup; it does not make an otherwise unsuitable cut safe.
A push block offers a broader hold-down surface, while a simple push stick can fit a narrow space beside a fence. Select the design for the machine and operation. CCOHS emphasizes rigid devices that allow steady control and protect the hands, including two-handed positioning for suitable jointer or planer work.
Prepare clean, dry surfaces and work with ventilation. Dispense equal amounts of resin and hardener into a suitable disposable mixing tray, then stir until uniform. Gorilla specifies about 20 seconds of mixing and application within five minutes. Prepare the fit first so the mixture is not thickening while you find clamps.
No. Gorilla distinguishes water resistance from continuous water exposure and does not recommend this epoxy for constant immersion. Check the exact product's service conditions before repairing an item that stays wet. A bond surviving occasional splashes is not evidence that it is suitable for an aquarium or submerged fitting.
Gorilla does not recommend this epoxy for direct or indirect food contact. Do not assume that a clear, fully hardened repair makes it suitable for a drinking vessel or food container. Choose a repair specifically approved for the item's intended use, or replace the item when that cannot be established.
The original polyurethane formula cures with moisture. Lightly dampen the specified surface, apply a thin layer to the other surface, and hold the fitted pieces together as directed. Do not soak the parts or pour water into the bottle. This method does not apply to every glue carrying the Gorilla name.
Source checks for these answers: September 22, 2026. Product instructions and local requirements can vary.