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Teach everyday skills, set up comfortable spaces, and help dogs and cats settle into home life.
Search this topicProvide constant access to good-quality feeding hay or suitable fresh grass, with leafy greens and a small portion of rabbit pellets. Hay is a main food, not merely bedding. The RSPCA advises offering a daily bundle at least as large as the rabbit, while keeping fresh water continuously available.
No. Carrots and fruit are occasional treats, while hay or grass should provide the bulk of the diet. A familiar cartoon feeding habit is not a balanced rabbit menu. Introduce dietary changes gradually, and ask your veterinarian about suitable portions for your rabbit’s age and health.
No. The RSPCA specifically advises against feeding mower clippings because they can make rabbits ill. Suitable growing grass for grazing is different from a heap collected by a mower. Keep good-quality hay available, and check that any plants offered for grazing are safe and free of harmful treatments.
Scatter part of the normal pellet or greens allowance around a safe enclosure, or hide it in suitable cardboard tubes with hay. Let the rabbit search instead of adding extra treats. Use clean, appropriate materials and keep the daily feeding allowance in mind when preparing several activities.
Offer it in an appropriate hay rack or other safe holder above the floor rather than leaving the whole supply where it gets soiled. The RSPCA suggests placing hay above a litter tray to encourage eating. Continue checking freshness and accessibility instead of assuming a holder keeps hay clean indefinitely.
No. Rabbits need room to run, hop, stand upright, and stretch out, plus a secure shelter. The RSPCA recommends at least three by two meters with one meter of height for two medium rabbits, including shelter and exercise space. An attached exercise area gives them more consistent access.
Multiple openings help a rabbit feel less trapped and provide another way out. Offer enough hiding places for rabbits to rest together or apart, including in the exercise area. Keep routes clear; packing every corner with boxes can remove the open space they need to move around.
The RSPCA lists newspaper, hay, straw, shredded paper, or paper-based litter that neither clumps nor expands. Keep toileting areas separate from sleeping areas and clean them daily. Do not assume every cat litter is suitable just because it is sold for another household animal’s tray.
Work close to the ground, move calmly, and support the back and hindquarters throughout the lift. Hold the feet securely against your body without excessive restraint. Never lift by the ears. If you are unsure, ask a rabbit-experienced veterinarian to demonstrate; struggling can seriously injure a rabbit’s fragile spine.
Not necessarily. The RSPCA describes this position as stressful, even when the rabbit appears still, and advises against holding rabbits this way. Interact at ground level and use minimal necessary restraint instead. A motionless animal is not automatically comfortable or consenting to prolonged handling.
Approach calmly from the front at a low level. Support the shoulders or chest with one hand and the hindquarters with the other, holding gently but securely. Avoid swooping down like a predator or leaving the back end dangling. Keep handling calm and supervise children closely.
No. Provide a solid floor with suitable dry bedding instead; a grid can hurt the feet and allows bedding to fall through. Include covered places to rest and move between. A cage that is convenient to clean still needs to support the animal comfortably throughout the day.
Spot-clean daily and plan a thorough clean at least weekly, adjusting for enclosure size, the number of animals, and actual soiling. Replace wet or dirty bedding promptly. Keep the routine hygienic without repeatedly disturbing the animals unnecessarily, and inspect shelters as well as the most visible floor area.
Yes. Good-quality hay should be the main part of their diet and remain available at all times. Guinea pigs graze across the day and night, and chewing hay supports their teeth and digestion. Suitable fresh grass can also be offered; mower clippings are not an acceptable substitute.
Make changes gradually rather than replacing the diet suddenly. Keep the usual hay and fresh water available and watch eating, drinking, and droppings. Contact a veterinarian promptly if these habits change; reduced eating or abnormal droppings should not be dismissed as the guinea pig simply adjusting to a new menu.
Choose compatible guinea-pig companionship instead. Rabbits communicate differently, have different dietary needs, and can bully or accidentally injure guinea pigs. Shared size or a similar-looking enclosure does not make two species suitable roommates. Ask a knowledgeable rescue or veterinarian for help arranging an appropriate pairing and gradual introduction.
Provide enough food, water, shelters, and hiding places for every animal, with room to get away from companions. Do not force all access through one crowded spot. Introduce unfamiliar animals gradually under supervision, preferably on neutral ground, and get experienced help if bullying or fighting develops.
Avoid cotton wool and similar materials that separate into tough, fine strands. They can entangle a hamster or cause harm if swallowed. Choose suitable nesting materials such as shredded paper or cardboard, and provide a dry, secure sleeping area instead of judging bedding only by how soft it feels.
Clean while the hamster is awake instead of waking it during the day. Remove soiled material and keep bedding dry, while retaining a little clean, familiar-smelling old nesting material. The appropriate deep-clean interval depends on enclosure size and toileting habits, so inspect conditions rather than following a rigid schedule blindly.
Keep the sleeping shelter away from a spot that could flood if the bottle leaks. Provide a dark nest large enough for sleeping, movement, and food storage, with suitable nesting material nearby. Check the bedding for dampness rather than assuming that a correctly mounted bottle can never drip.
No. Syrian hamsters should live alone, as should Chinese hamsters. Even dwarf species do not need a cage mate to be happy and can fight despite getting along initially. Provide appropriate space and enrichment instead of adding an unfamiliar hamster because you are worried the existing pet feels lonely.
Scatter or hide part of its normal balanced food ration around safe areas of the enclosure. This gives it a chance to search and collect food instead of always eating from one dish. Use food formulated for hamsters and count scattered portions as part of the usual daily amount.
Hamsters commonly transport food to a sheltered place to eat or store it. A quickly emptied dish therefore does not necessarily mean all the food has been eaten. Provide appropriate hiding and nesting areas, and monitor the overall feeding routine instead of automatically refilling the bowl whenever it looks empty.
Gerbils naturally dig substantial burrows. A suitable gerbilarium provides deep bedding over a solid floor, secure containment, and room for exercise and shelters. A shallow cage filled with climbing bars does not meet that digging need. Check that the enclosure also has a secure, ventilated top.
Source checks for these answers: September 22, 2026. Product instructions and local requirements can vary.