94 useful answers · Page 2 of 4
Teach everyday skills, set up comfortable spaces, and help dogs and cats settle into home life.
Search this topicStay calm and redirect to a suitable toy or a brief safe sniffing activity, then reward relaxed walking before grabbing restarts. Avoid turning the leash into a tug contest. Consider whether the walk is too exciting, frustrating, or long. Persistent grabbing needs its cause addressed, not simply a heavier chain leash.
Practice a fair trade with a safe toy and something the dog prefers. Offer the better reward, mark the release, and add a consistent drop cue as the behavior becomes predictable. Do not practice by snatching valuables or chasing the dog. Guarding, growling, or a dangerous swallowed item requires appropriate professional help rather than a confrontation.
Plan for one per cat plus one extra, placed in separate quiet, accessible locations away from food and water. Several boxes crowded together may not offer meaningful choice, especially if another cat controls access. Make sure older cats can enter comfortably and that a noisy appliance or closed door does not block the route.
Remove deposits at least daily; Cats Protection advises twice daily and more often when needed. Empty and wash the tray regularly, generally at least weekly, using hot soapy water or a suitable cat-safe cleaner, then rinse and dry. Follow the litter’s instructions too. Strong scents do not compensate for a dirty tray.
Usually a familiar unscented litter is a better starting point. Cats have sensitive noses, and a scent pleasant to you may discourage them. Many prefer a fine sandy texture, but individual preferences matter. Change litter or tray arrangements gradually, and investigate new toileting problems rather than repeatedly switching fragrances.
Choose a stable base that does not wobble and enough height for a full stretch. Match the surface and direction to the cat’s preference; some need a horizontal scratching pad instead. A decorative post that moves under their weight may lose out to a solid sofa even when it looks suitable to you.
Put an appealing scratching surface beside the targeted area, protect the furniture, and reward use of the alternative. Once it is used reliably, move it gradually if necessary. Scratching is normal, so removing every outlet is not the aim. Widespread new scratching or conflict may also need the underlying stress addressed.
Try beside a favored resting spot or the place already being scratched, rather than hiding it in an unused corner. Cats often stretch and scratch after waking. Give each cat access to suitable posts in different areas. Check stability and preferred scratching direction as well as location before assuming the cat dislikes all posts.
Leave the carrier open in a quiet familiar place with comfortable bedding. Reward voluntary exploration and gradually offer treats inside. Once the cat rests comfortably there, practice brief door closing, then gentle lifting. Increase each stage slowly and step back if they become worried; avoid bringing the carrier out only for stressful appointments.
Choose a sturdy, secure, well-ventilated carrier that is easy to clean and lets the cat lie comfortably and adjust position. A removable top can help with training and handling. Check every latch before travel. Cardboard or cramped novelty carriers are poor substitutes for a properly sized carrier designed to transport a cat securely.
Give each cat their own suitable carrier. Even cats who usually get along can react differently when confined and stressed, and sharing limits room to reposition. Check closures and ventilation and use familiar bedding. Never travel with a cat loose in the vehicle simply because they dislike being carried.
Start with separate spaces and supplies. Exchange familiar scents, then allow brief visual contact through a secure barrier once both remain calm. Progress to supervised short meetings with ways to retreat. Move at the cats’ pace, returning to an earlier stage if tension rises; putting them together to sort it out can worsen the relationship.
Gently collect scent from a relaxed cat’s cheek or forehead on a clean cloth, then place it where the other cat can choose to investigate or ignore it. Do not rub the unfamiliar scent onto them or trap them beside it. Proceed to visual introductions only when both cope comfortably with the scent stage.
There is no dependable universal deadline. Watch their comfort through separate-space, scent, barrier, and supervised-meeting stages instead of advancing because a calendar says to. Some cats need much longer or may never enjoy close company. Keep essential resources separate and seek qualified help if tension persists or either cat cannot relax.
Let them investigate a suitable brush and introduce a few gentle strokes in a calm setting. Keep sessions brief and build up gradually with minimal restraint. Stop before the cat becomes distressed, and choose tools for their coat. If grooming is painful or there are tight mats, seek veterinary or experienced grooming help rather than pulling.
Not necessarily. A long coat may benefit from a suitable comb, while a short coat may be comfortable with a soft brush. Let the coat and the cat’s tolerance guide the choice, using gentle strokes rather than scraping the skin. Sudden changes in self-grooming should be discussed with a vet.
Move the toy like prey so the cat can stalk, chase, and pounce, and let them catch it periodically. Keep fingers out of the game and tailor the pace to the cat. Inspect the toy for loose pieces and put strings and wand toys away afterward so they cannot become entangled unsupervised.
Yes. A few minutes of engaged play, repeated through the day as appropriate, can be more appealing than one long session. Vary safe toys and let the cat pause or leave. Age and energy differ, so do not force a fixed workout. Regular opportunities matter even when a cat also has outdoor access.
Use toys instead so the kitten does not learn that skin is an appropriate target. A wand toy gives distance for chasing and pouncing. If play becomes too rough, pause calmly and redirect future sessions, rather than encouraging the same game and punishing the kitten for joining in. Seek help for persistent or sudden aggression.
Begin with a quiet secure room containing the essentials, hiding places, and familiar bedding where possible. Keep food, water, and litter thoughtfully separated. Let the cat leave the carrier and explore at their own pace before expanding access. Limit visitors and noise; some cats need considerably more settling time than others.
Give them a safe hiding place and the choice to approach instead. Sit quietly nearby without cornering or repeatedly handling them, and maintain access to food, water, and litter. Monitor that essential needs are being met. Prolonged distress or not eating calls for veterinary advice rather than simply waiting indefinitely.
Prepare a quiet secure room beforehand with familiar bedding, water, litter, and other essentials. Keep windows secure and tell everyone not to open the door; a sign helps prevent accidental escape. Move the cat in a closed carrier when ready. Plan the same protected space at the destination before unloading becomes hectic.
Keep some familiar clean-enough bedding and other comforting scents available during the move rather than making everything unfamiliar at once. Set them in the new safe room with the usual essentials. Allow gradual exploration while keeping escape routes secured. Update contact details on the microchip registration and arrange continuity of veterinary care.
Let the cat approach and offer a relaxed hand for investigation rather than reaching in suddenly. If they rub against you and remain relaxed, try a brief gentle stroke and pause to see whether they want more. Leave hiding, sleeping, frightened, or actively hunting cats alone, and stop when they move away or show discomfort.
Source checks for these answers: September 22, 2026. Product instructions and local requirements can vary.