305 useful answers · Page 10 of 13
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Search this topicLet the plants establish through the planting season and the following spring without harvesting. Minnesota Extension recommends beginning in the second spring after planting, and only on vigorous plants, with a short first harvest. Allow subsequent shoots to grow into ferns. Seed-grown plants generally need another year before this schedule begins.
Leave the green ferns growing after the spear harvest ends. Their foliage makes the energy that rebuilds the roots for future crops. Cutting them off while active weakens the bed. Keep caring for the planting during this period, and handle dormant-season cleanup according to local guidance and disease conditions.
Give newly planted rhubarb two growing seasons to establish. Iowa State recommends a limited harvest in the third season, lasting about four weeks, before allowing uninterrupted growth. Harvesting heavily while the crown is young reduces the leaves available to support its roots. Judge vigor as well as the calendar.
Grasp a mature stalk near its base and pull upward with a slight sideways motion. Take no more than about half the developed stalks at once from an established plant. Remove and discard the leaves; they are not edible. Leave enough foliage to support continued growth and next season’s crop.
Remove the flower stalk near its base when it appears, keeping the surrounding leaf stalks intact. Flowering and seed production take resources away from the leafy growth you want. This is different from removing ordinary green leaves. Continue normal care, and end harvesting in time for the crown to replenish itself.
It means excluding light from the stalks while the plant grows, rather than boiling harvested celery. Traditional trench varieties need this treatment; self-blanching types are usually grown in blocks that shade one another. Check the variety before choosing a method, and keep the upper leafy growth exposed to light.
Wait until frost risk has passed, then gradually acclimate the seedlings before planting. Young celery also dislikes prolonged chilly conditions even without a frost; RHS guidance cautions against extended exposure below 50°F during establishment. Use local weather forecasts rather than copying a planting month from another region’s gardening calendar.
Insufficient moisture is one important cause to investigate. Celery needs fertile soil that retains moisture and consistent watering through the growing season. Do not let the bed repeatedly dry out between soakings. In a very dry garden, maintaining those conditions can be difficult, even when neighboring vegetables appear healthy.
They need a long growing period but produce better sprouts as conditions cool. Hot, dry weather can give loose or bitter sprouts. Work backward from your local fall season using the variety’s maturity information and regional planting advice; a successful schedule in Maryland will not fit every climate.
Begin with the lowest sprouts, which usually mature before those higher on the stalk. Pick firm, compact green sprouts at roughly one to one and a half inches across, twisting or snapping them off carefully. Continue upward as the remaining sprouts develop instead of stripping every size at once.
Maryland Extension suggests removing the top growing point when the lowest sprouts are about half an inch across. This encourages the remaining sprouts to develop more evenly. It is a timed finishing step, not something to do to a newly planted seedling, and it does not mean stripping all the leaves.
In a short growing season, starting leeks indoors can be helpful because many varieties need about 120 to 150 days. Earlier varieties mature faster. Match the variety and sowing schedule to your climate, then transplant healthy young plants outdoors at the locally recommended time rather than relying on one universal sowing date.
Exclude light from the lower stem as the plants grow. You can gradually hill soil around them or plant into a furrow and fill it progressively toward the leaf bases. Keep soil out of the leafy center. The white section is a blanched stem, not evidence that the leek lacks nutrients.
No. Unlike storage onions, leeks do not need to lose their green tops before harvest. Check the variety’s expected size and lift usable, firm stems when ready. Loosen the soil first if needed rather than yanking hard. Some varieties tolerate considerable cold, but winter survival depends on variety and climate.
Yes. The rounded edible part is an enlarged stem, not a buried root, so it naturally develops above ground. Do not heap soil over it to imitate a root vegetable. Give plants their recommended spacing and consistent care, then judge harvest readiness by the variety’s size rather than by burial.
For many ordinary varieties, harvest when the swollen stem is about two to three inches across. Waiting for a huge bulb can produce a tough, woody texture. Giant varieties are bred to remain usable at larger sizes, so check the packet instead of applying the small-variety rule to every plant.
Kohlrabi generally performs better in cool conditions, making spring and fall useful growing windows in many regions. Strong summer heat can reduce quality and increase stress. Use your local planting calendar and the variety’s maturity time to plan a harvest outside peak heat, while keeping moisture consistent as stems develop.
Slips are young shoots used to start sweet potato plants. They are not the cut seed-potato pieces used for ordinary potatoes. Plant after frost risk has ended and the soil has warmed to about 65°F. Give the crop enough warm growing time for its variety; cold soil is not a head start.
Harvest before frost damages the crop, using the variety’s maturity period as a guide. Loosen the soil and lift the roots gently rather than pulling hard on vines. Fresh skins are delicate, so avoid scraping, rubbing, or washing roots intended for curing and storage. Separate damaged roots from sound ones.
No. Curing briefly uses warmth and high humidity to help wounds heal; Maryland lists about 85°F for five to ten days. Long-term storage is cooler, around 55–60°F, with ventilation. A household room may not provide proper curing conditions. Refrigeration is too cold for uncooked roots intended for storage.
Yes. Pollen from field corn, popcorn, or incompatible sweet-corn types can alter the eating quality of this season’s kernels. Check the variety’s isolation requirements before planting. Separation can involve distance or different flowering times, but simply sowing two crops on different days does not guarantee their tasseling periods will differ.
Take a few shoot tips regularly instead of repeatedly stripping isolated leaves from bare stems. This encourages branching while leaving foliage for continued growth. Remove developing flower stems if extending the leaf harvest is your priority. Keep the plant warm and adequately watered; pruning alone will not correct cold or drought stress.
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The pot often contains many crowded seedlings intended for short-term picking. Promptly dividing and repotting them can give individual plants more space, though success is not guaranteed. Keep supermarket plants indoors in containers, as RHS recommends, and provide warmth, bright light, and careful watering rather than leaving the crowded pot unchanged.
Wait until frost danger has passed and nights are reliably warm. RHS guidance uses nights consistently above 50°F for outdoor sowing. Acclimate indoor-grown plants gradually, then choose a sunny, sheltered position with good drainage. A mild afternoon does not make a cold overnight forecast suitable for this tender herb.
Source checks for these answers: September 22, 2026. Product instructions and local requirements can vary.